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Ask any local in New Zealand and they’ll tell you that it’s possible to experience all four seasons in a single day, no matter where you are in the country. On a recent trip to the island nation, we experienced that for ourselves.
We were staying in Blanket Bay, a tiny Queenstown community set amongst the shores of Lake Wakatipu and the dramatic snow-capped peaks of the Fiordland nearby. The blustery fall winds in the morning gave way to a warm spring rain in the afternoon, followed by sunshine (and yes, rainbows) as the clouds parted before dusk. And then, as nightfall descended upon the town, Blanket Bay was breezy again, offering a perfect opportunity for us to pour a glass of local wine and warm up by a fireplace.
This was not the New Zealand we expected when we had made the 13-hour flight over to the island from Los Angeles. And yet, this was exactly why we came here — to discover something new about this seemingly familiar land.
Long known for Maori culture and “Middle Earth,” New Zealand has always been a popular tourist destination, made more so by the TV shows and movies that have filmed here. But as another season of The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power comes to an end, Kiwis say their home is more than hobbits and horses. In fact, there is much newness to discover about New Zealand.
That’s where Relais & Châteaux is playing a role in expanding perceptions of the island country to new visitors and seasoned travelers alike. Celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, the not-for-profit association of independently-owned hotels and restaurants has long been a yardstick for unique experiences and personalized service. Nowhere is that more apparent than in New Zealand, where three Relais & Châteaux properties are offering up memorable stays designed to inspire and surprise.
Wharekauhau Country Estate offers a luxurious farm-style experience on the clifftops of the postcard-worthy Palliser Bay. They do things differently here, something that’s evident the moment you step off the plane in Wellington and get whisked away to a private tarmac, where a specially-chartered helicopter can take you from waterfront to Wharekauhau in a matter of minutes.
Wharekauhau Country Estate
Set among 3,000 acres of picturesque views in the foothills of the Remutaka Mountain Range, Wharekauhau is designed for drama. You’re never too far from a Lord of the Rings experience if that’s what you’ve come for: director Peter Jackson used the Pinnacles on the other side of Palliser Bay as a filming spot for his films, and Wharekauhau takes a number of guests to this area to walk the rock formation valley. Make sure to also ask general manager Richard Rooney about the time a visiting family asked the property to stage a full battle of the Five Armies on the front lawn. Few things are declined here, but the property did turn down the battle scene re-creation. After all, Wharekauhau is made for lovers, not fighters, and it’s easy to fall in love with everything from the lush landscaping of the property’s winding paths, to the cozy dining room, where Executive Chef Norka Mella Munoz whips up a mix of “Kiwi” cuisine with touches of her Chilean roots.
Wharekauhau Country Estate
The experiences at Wharekauhau extend beyond the property too, with optional ATV tours that cruise you past herds of cattle on the hills and down to the black sand beaches below. Wine lovers, meantime, can take a short car ride down to Martinborough, where tasting rooms and vineyards dot the small, picturesque town (tip: New Zealand may be best known for sauvignon blanc, but this region makes some of the best pinot noir in the world, so you’ll want to reach for a glass or two of red).
Want to learn more about the wool that’s made New Zealand so famous in the fashion circles? You can get up close and personal at a sheep shearing demonstration on the farm (New Zealand is home to the world-famous Icebreaker merino wool company). Or, if you’re like us, you can snuggle up by the fireplace in your lodge-style room while enjoying the bottle of wine you just purchased that day, while watching the sun go down in a literal blaze of glory.
Blanket Bay
A quick 90-minute flight away lies the city of Queenstown, which feels like a more idyllic version of Pacific Northwest cities like Seattle or Vancouver. Drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu and you’ll eventually find your way to Blanket Bay (pictured above), which offers sights and scenery to behold (it’s truly one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever stayed in). Jackson and Sir Ian McKellan (Gandalf) were both regulars at Blanket Bay during filming of the LOTR movies, and you can book a jet boat to take you close to Mount Earnslaw, for views of the magnificent peak seen in the opening scenes of The Two Towers. The cast and crew of the Oscar-nominated, The Power of the Dog, also frequented the property when they filmed the drama in nearby Central Otago.
On any given day, Blanket Bay can be wild and windy, or bright and balmy, owing to the unique lake effect weather. Similarly, the experiences run the gamut from relaxing to adventurous here, with the property offering everything from guided hikes and horseback riding, to helicopter tours that descend upon the snow-capped glaciers of Mt Aspiring National Park. It’s almost impossible to pack for Blanket Bay — when we were there in April, it was warm enough for shorts during our daily walk to the dining room in the property’s main lodge, but we were bundled up and ankle-deep in snow during our helicopter ride up to the mountains. But that’s part of the charm of this place and something we wouldn’t have traded for anything.
Blanket Bay
Many of the staff at Blanket Bay have been there since the beginning, a testament to just how blissful and serene the property is. Like Wharekauhau, there is plenty to explore out in the wilderness, but no one would judge you for wanting to stay in either, with Blanket Bay’s updated cabin-style rooms offering unobstructed views of the Bay, the lake and the mountain ranges.
And then there’s Otahuna Lodge, a handsome and distinctive 19th century Victorian estate in the city of Christchurch. Originally built in 1895, much of the original architecture has been lovingly maintained, with property owners Hall Cannon and Miles Refo (American tourists-turned-local-proprietors) meticulously restoring the period woodwork and furnishings. Stepping into Otahuna is like walking onto the set of a beautiful period piece, or an exclusive art gallery, with pieces that tell the story of the people that have passed through over the years.
Stephen Goodenough
A truly intimate getaway, there are only seven suites at Otahuna Lodge, each individually designed based on a theme or decor style. The feel is eclectic, never kitschy, and each room has thoughtfully-appointed touches to surprise and delight, like flower arrangements pulled from the property’s cutting gardens, and small-batch snacks and freshly-baked treats left each day for you to discover and enjoy.
The property’s impeccably-maintained gardens offer a tranquil place to stroll and meditate, while nearby experiences include everything from wine and cheese tastings, to boat tours along the Banks Peninsula, for a (hopefully) rare spotting of the local Hector’s dolphins, little blue penguins and New Zealand fur seals.
End the day with a private dining experience with chef Jimmy McIntyre, who has been Executive Chef at Otahuna Lodge for almost two decades. Because of the small size of the property, you can choose to dine in the communal, family-style kitchen, al fresco by the pool, in the elegantly appointed dining room, or in one of many private nooks, for a more intimate experience. Make sure to ask for Chef McIntyre’s homemade hot sauce too — if you ask nicely, he’ll even bottle some up for you to take home as a savory souvenir, and a little reminder of Kiwi hospitality.
Getting to New Zealand is easy, with daily non-stop flights on Air New Zealand from Los Angeles and San Francisco, as well as routes from New York, Dallas and Houston. Service is friendly and efficient, with little touches of “quiet luxury” throughout — think a surprisingly comfortable mattress pad for the lay-flat beds in business class, and unique offerings of Kiwi cuisine developed with local chefs. A “dinner to daytime” flight from LA means you can go to bed on the plane and wake up (albeit a day later) in Auckland, ready and refreshed for your adventures ahead.
